My quest for a black and white polka dot summery wardrobe continues – graduating from my Black and White Polka Dot Tank Top to a strappy knee-length dress with a dash of red inside and out for that classic fifties vibe.
Instead of utilizing my Drafted Nightgown Pattern as with my tank top, I first chose a new to me thrifted McCall's 7116. Being unfamiliar with this pattern, I went to work on a mock up from a Goodwill “Khaki” bolt. Although this was supposed to be my size, it just wasn't the right design for this black and white polka dot print. I need more room in the bust and high empire waist, which could be solved by cutting more ease and creating stylized gathering. I always end up altering a commercial pattern in some way so such changes were not unexpected. However the polka dots and double gathering combined felt as though it would be too busy and bulky for my breezy lightweight intention. This isn't a mistake; it's why sewers do pretend practice before the lesson is learned once it's too late with the fashion fabric. Fortunately, I'm also halfway there in using this pattern for a warmer fall dress!
Alas it was on to the thrifted Simplicity 2587 pattern instead. Using the red cotton remaining from my Mother Christmas Costume, I cut my pattern pieces and basted them together for any adjustments. Here the pattern fit as intended with only a shortening of the shoulder straps and excess inches in the back seam. Huzzah! Now this mock up can be taken apart to serve as my pop lining. I think there is a right and wrong side and some of the waistband pieces may be backward. I needed to piece together the end of the waistband with odd triangles, too, but for a lining that won't be seen, so what? It's also down to the selvage with this red cotton so I had to use another red satin-esque remnant for the skirt lining – which is okay for a shiny flash of color that may be seen. Since I have the polka dot fabric to spare, I cut extra around my pattern pieces for finishing seams and fold overs to hide the strips of white Goodwill grab bag interfacing in the collar, armhole, and straps. After all the black on black seam binding in my tank top made my eyes wonky, I'm more than ready to save my black trims for more dramatic frocks and bind this biznitch with red satin ribbon instead. Although this turned out to be the most time consuming part of the garment because I had to assure my red thread never came through on the outside black and white polka dots, it's another cheeky pop if you see inside the arm. I did end up needing more red ribbon though, buying less yards for more money at the Dollar Tree. Shrinkflation!
Strangely I don't think I went through the proper order of sewing on this project – assembling most of the new to me top for increasing fit and fine tuning before the more straightforward skirt. I've been trying to find an empire style, triangular bust bodice pattern for awhile, even drafting something of my own in hopes of a matching top for my Black and Orange Polka Dot Skirt. Since I didn't need the bust room, I sewed up the center line for more modesty, but unfortunately taking in that generous back seam left the waistband seams slightly misaligned with the bodice side seams. I was tempted to remove it altogether but decided to keep the empire band because I can do something totally different in correcting this pattern next time. I was more unsure about how the straight line skirt would fit as this is my problem area and I prefer skirts more full. When cutting the black and white polka dots, there were extra rectangles that I sewed together as another back skirt panel. This allowed me to loosely gather the entire skirt at the empire line for more flow for my hockey butt – which is apparently drastically different measurements then my back block. I had to piece the last of the red satin remnant for the bottom half of this add-on panel, resorting to another red lining repurposed from a dress I made previously for the top half. So far I have discovered at least three previously made, worn once, and taken apart again dresses put back in my sewing drawers. I have no idea why I did this! 🤦🏻♀️
Initially I intended to simply fell the polka dot skirt seams so in case you see red lining, you also see a polka dot pop. However, both the polka dots and the assorted red linings were fraying a bit too much so I went with more red ribbon seam binding that took much more time than I expected. I'm just glad that I didn't intend this as a maxi dress! Turning up the hem was the perfect knee length, and a rack of clearance trim from a hobby gift card became red panache for the hem, collar, and waistband. In this project I discovered that since my weight loss, I hadn't changed the adjustable dress form, and now I had to take it in for the dress to fit back over the form while I basted my trim in place. Darts are my bane, but I was able to do two small bust pleats in the top empire line as well as cinching the bottom line's gathering with the red trim for a final look that is fitted and flattering yet breezy enough and still able to get off freely over my head. Initially I wasn't sure how much red trim I wanted, but it also hides any seam lines where the polka dots are slightly cut off with a “Wow, what fun!” instead of a “Homemade mistake, whoa.” I debated some fun black buttons at the front v or at the strap ends before having the brilliant idea to put two small bats on the front and back. These critters are from a longer bat trim roll used previously on my Halloween Mystery Costume. I try to use it sparingly, but this up close chuckle disguises where the trim ends meet and attaching them with little red eye stitches gives the dress even more humorous personality, tee hee. 🦇
I needed a summer frock and learned a lot about what I would do differently, yet I already want to use this pattern again. Despite being a new to me pattern with fit adjustments, lining compensation, and trim hiding; I am pleased with the attention to detail and the project overall. These polka dots were necessary seasonal pieces, and I didn't disassemble everything at the first stumbling block because I wanted to wear what I made. Persisting on the fixes, bells, and whistles made for a really fun garment even as summer waned. I'm itching for more orange autumn projects, so this pattern's long sleeve option may come in handy soon!
Follow Kbatz Krafts on Blue Sky and see our project albums on Facebook or Instagram! Visit the Kbatz Krafts Archive for more Sewing Adventures including:
No comments:
Post a Comment