The
Black and White Polka Dot Tank Top
was not enough nor was the Black and White Polka Dot Dress,
so now is the time to drape myself in a maxi black and white polka
dot creation!

Utilizing
my Drafted Nightgown Pattern
finished the last yards from one bolt of this clearance Walmart
material and cut into the second $15 bolt. After washing and ironing
the material for cutting, it was obvious that thanks to my latest
health issues, this already roomy pattern was now much larger.
Fortunately I was undeterred and actually excited for new, versatile
fitting possibilities, taking in the side seams and contemplating a
tie back or empire gathering line. The basting and machine stitching
progressed in a few hours before the first try on yielded more
adjustments. I had already shortened the shoulder straps, but also
per my previous tank top, the back seams needed to be straighter
rather than curved. I took another inch out of each in doing so, but
rather than take in all the excess like my fitted tank, I wanted this
dress to remain breezy cool. Finishing the collar and armholes with
double fold overs and double machine rows also opened the pattern
further. Unlike my failed attempt at a brown housecoat set from this
pattern, the hem also went smoothly first with a machine folder over
and then another turn up with hem tape. Despite the baggy style and
liner to be added, after four days this dress was technically done,
surprising even myself at how quickly this pattern know-how came
together after my long-gestating Purple Polka Dot Skirt.

Some
folks are precision sewers and do all the math and measurements at
the beginning and that is superb. I am not one of those people. Such
finite at the start can deter newcomers from attempting sewing.
However, if you aren't going to math the maths, that means you have
to accept that adjustments will come later, which I do, just like
drafts in writing that continually hone and perfect. Does this make a
sewing project more difficult sometimes? Maybe. After contemplating
an elastic empire draw only in the back three pattern pieces, I
instead decided to do an entire empire waistline all the way around
the dress. Naturally, this would have been incredibly easier if I had
planned this element in advance and left the dress open with a center
back seam to lay flat as was planned in making my niece's Lemon Dress.
Now this change began with a terrible chalk line while wearing the
dress inside out before putting the dress back on the form and pining
a black grosgrain ribbon channel in place. Then I had to lay it flat
on the floor, check the measurements, and baste the ribbon.
Fortunately, I was not discouraged. This wasn't a mistake by any
means but an exciting design twist and I am currently healthy enough
to roll with it. After test gathering the elastic through with the
good old safety pin trick, it was too cute – and more importantly
straight! The black on black hand sewing was going to be terrible on
my IIH eyes, but I decided to remove the elastic and do the empire
waistband top stitching by hand to avoid having a black machine
stitch go across the white polka dots on the dress front. My geometry
is not finite but my perfectionism is anal.



Next I had to remember to do
everything in proper sewing order just to make things easier on
myself. After finishing the outer empire stitching, it was time for
the lining cut from a black cotton thrift sheet for the back and a
slightly better quality matching pillowcase for the front torso.
Although it was initially cumbersome to pin the liner with the thrift
interfacing encased around the collar curves with my ham at the
ironing board (whew!), the lining was whipped stitched in place
swiftly. The print, sheets, and thread were all slightly different
shades of black which made it a lot easier to see! I don't usually do
this kind of bag style liner and prefer to flat line as one, however
I didn't want double bulky seams once I was thinking about a gathered
waist. After turning up the liner hem with hem tape, I trimmed the
side seams and folded them together to hide the ugly edges inside
before a running back stitch finish. Somehow the liner hem was a half
inch longer on one side and one shoulder seam was a tad short so I
had to piece a sheet scrap in place but who's going to know? Of
course, before I could tack down the liner at the dress side seams,
the elastic had to be run back thru the empire waist and the channel
closed. The interior was at last complete, and I ultimately decided
not to stitch down the gathering in the back – leaving the elastic
breath-ability while the front panel remains flat and flattering.
This invokes a slight fifties fit and flair look befitting the polka
dots with a pleasing Marilyn Munster vibe. Huzzah!
This dress is perhaps a bit plain and
I'm tempted to add more lace trim or red piping, but the polka dot
pattern elevates the simple cut. I can always add any hem or collar
trim with a matching tie sash later, and my black or red belts can be
fun with coordinating accessories. I'm ridiculously surprised at
myself for how quickly this came together despite ongoing turmoils
and time added for the hand sewing finish. I expected another round
of final pinching or tweaking but that also proved unnecessary. It's
not a fluke, a garment a week can be done! (So long as I have a
healthy burst and actually allow ten days for trauma, but who's
keeping track?)
Follow Kbatz Krafts on Blue Sky or visit our Facebook and Instagram for more project photos. Browse the Kbatz Krafts Archive for more sewing including:
Green Velvet Skirt
The Cheap Elsa Costume
Black and Orange Polka Dot Apron