The Black and White Polka Dot Tank Top was not enough nor was the Black and White Polka Dot Dress, so now is the time to drape myself in a maxi black and white polka dot creation!
Utilizing my Drafted Nightgown Pattern finished the last yards from one bolt of this clearance Walmart material and cut into the second $15 bolt. After washing and ironing the material for cutting, it was obvious that thanks to my latest health issues, this already roomy pattern was now much larger. Fortunately I was undeterred and actually excited for new, versatile fitting possibilities, taking in the side seams and contemplating a tie back or empire gathering line. The basting and machine stitching progressed in a few hours before the first try on yielded more adjustments. I had already shortened the shoulder straps, but also per my previous tank top, the back seams needed to be straighter rather than curved. I took another inch out of each in doing so, but rather than take in all the excess like my fitted tank, I wanted this dress to remain breezy cool. Finishing the collar and armholes with double fold overs and double machine rows also opened the pattern further. Unlike my failed attempt at a brown housecoat set from this pattern, the hem also went smoothly first with a machine folder over and then another turn up with hem tape. Despite the baggy style and liner to be added, after four days this dress was technically done, surprising even myself at how quickly this pattern know-how came together after my long-gestating Purple Polka Dot Skirt.
Some folks are precision sewers and do all the math and measurements at the beginning and that is superb. I am not one of those people. Such finite at the start can deter newcomers from attempting sewing. However, if you aren't going to math the maths, that means you have to accept that adjustments will come later, which I do, just like drafts in writing that continually hone and perfect. Does this make a sewing project more difficult sometimes? Maybe. After contemplating an elastic empire draw only in the back three pattern pieces, I instead decided to do an entire empire waistline all the way around the dress. Naturally, this would have been incredibly easier if I had planned this element in advance and left the dress open with a center back seam to lay flat as was planned in making my niece's Lemon Dress. Now this change began with a terrible chalk line while wearing the dress inside out before putting the dress back on the form and pining a black grosgrain ribbon channel in place. Then I had to lay it flat on the floor, check the measurements, and baste the ribbon. Fortunately, I was not discouraged. This wasn't a mistake by any means but an exciting design twist and I am currently healthy enough to roll with it. After test gathering the elastic through with the good old safety pin trick, it was too cute – and more importantly straight! The black on black hand sewing was going to be terrible on my IIH eyes, but I decided to remove the elastic and do the empire waistband top stitching by hand to avoid having a black machine stitch go across the white polka dots on the dress front. My geometry is not finite but my perfectionism is anal.
Next I had to remember to do everything in proper sewing order just to make things easier on myself. After finishing the outer empire stitching, it was time for the lining cut from a black cotton thrift sheet for the back and a slightly better quality matching pillowcase for the front torso. Although it was initially cumbersome to pin the liner with the thrift interfacing encased around the collar curves with my ham at the ironing board (whew!), the lining was whipped stitched in place swiftly. The print, sheets, and thread were all slightly different shades of black which made it a lot easier to see! I don't usually do this kind of bag style liner and prefer to flat line as one, however I didn't want double bulky seams once I was thinking about a gathered waist. After turning up the liner hem with hem tape, I trimmed the side seams and folded them together to hide the ugly edges inside before a running back stitch finish. Somehow the liner hem was a half inch longer on one side and one shoulder seam was a tad short so I had to piece a sheet scrap in place but who's going to know? Of course, before I could tack down the liner at the dress side seams, the elastic had to be run back thru the empire waist and the channel closed. The interior was at last complete, and I ultimately decided not to stitch down the gathering in the back – leaving the elastic breath-ability while the front panel remains flat and flattering. This invokes a slight fifties fit and flair look befitting the polka dots with a pleasing Marilyn Munster vibe. Huzzah!
This dress is perhaps a bit plain and I'm tempted to add more lace trim or red piping, but the polka dot pattern elevates the simple cut. I can always add any hem or collar trim with a matching tie sash later, and my black or red belts can be fun with coordinating accessories. I'm ridiculously surprised at myself for how quickly this came together despite ongoing turmoils and time added for the hand sewing finish. I expected another round of final pinching or tweaking but that also proved unnecessary. It's not a fluke, a garment a week can be done! (So long as I have a healthy burst and actually allow ten days for trauma, but who's keeping track?)
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Black and Orange Polka Dot Apron
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