My sewing table was overflowing with a pile of black and white polka dot scraps, and thus inspiration struck to put them all to good use in a tiered skirt!
With the help of my tortitude cat, I laid out all the scraps from my Polka Dot Tank Top; Black, White, and Red Dress; and the Black and White Polka Dot Maxi into piles – rolling up the smaller strips together for future use as straps, binding, or piping. Next, all the odd, square, and rectangular pieces became the top row for my go to 5 Skirts 1 Pattern Butterick 6196. Naturally, I couldn't worry about grain or pattern matching at this point. However I did not fear the shortchanged mistakes of my Black and Orange Polka Dot Skirt because I had enough scraps to make up the full volume of the pattern's widest center and two side panels. The black thrift sheet last partly used as the liner for the maxi dress with my Drafted Nightgown Pattern now became my skirt base while the remaining smaller polka dot pieces would become a ruffled hem. This black sheet would also line the top polka dot row and the middle black skirt portion. I could use the sheet's finished seam at the hem but I did need to piece another part of the sheet to complete the middle liner. Of course, I also laid everything out on the floor and mistakenly cut three layers of the sheet! I'd feel bad cutting excess if this were quality black fabric, but fortunately, I can always use more black backing anywhere.
This seemingly simple assembly took a day of finagling and geometry making sure my polka dot rows and black on black liners were the right sides before doing all the machine seams and then pressing all those seams in between and attaching everything together. It was thick on my thirty year old Brother machine going through four layers of material at the joining seam and there was a slight tension issue where I had to redo the stitching in a few spots. Thankfully, it's all very cute now that it's one skirt panel! That troublesome seam spot is a little uneven, but I decided to add very cheap old Joann black lace as a ruffled border between the fabric changes to hide this mistake as well as the slightly different fabric weights between the polka dot cotton and the thrift sheet. Unfortunately, this lace is a bitch with annoying, large gathering holes meant for infinity scarf making. It's a decorative trim cheat that adds hand gathering time, however I'm glad to finally use most of this stupid seventy-five cent lace! Although frustrated by the lace gathering, I was inspired by a black and white floral hand-me-down skirt that I love and decided to use dollar store white satin ribbon to unite the lace and fabric border. Attaching the completed trim with clean, small running back stitches was easy enough – save for not wanting to stitch through the black liner with my white thread.
Strangely, I am also lacking in said white thread with only a few spools from some discount old variety thread pack. The “Natural” thrift thread cone I often use for basting is an ivory that doesn't match the pure, flat white of my polka dots or the ribbon. Thankfully, those spools held out with me unnecessarily panicking about where the frick does one buy thread these days without Joann? After a few days of all that careful hand sewing attachment, I returned to the machine for my polka dot ruffle. I pinned all the slimmer polka dot strips together to make one continuous row, doing the math to make sure I had double the fabric amount for a good, full gathering. Doing the hem with hem tape stiffened the ruffle a little bit, but that helps to keep its oomph rather than being pleated flat as I again did the gathering by hand. The cat also insisting on helping as I laid out my ruffle across my black skirt end and pinned everything in place. Any black hem touch ups where the finished sheet end couldn't be used on the skirt pattern curve were also done while the black liner was left loose with it's own up turned hem. Finally a second row of black lace and white ribbon could be attached with a running back stitch above the polka dot ruffle for a complete contrasting floppy and floofy twirl.
Of course, I now realized I had gathered so much more of the lace and ribbon than needed and since the double row of lace and polka dots looked so adorable, I went for a spontaneous third lace row. After debating whether it should be centered on the black skirt panel or placed below the initial polka dot row, I decided a third ruffle at the hem was cutest. Did this add more damn hand sewing time to this seemingly simple project? Absolutely! The tricky back seam closure also had to be by hand to make sure I didn't catch any of the flouncy lace, but all my ribbon rows matched up deliciously! Continuing this maximum use scrap busting, I re-purposed the folded top line of the sheet as my waistband with an interior thrift interfacing to encase all the top raw polka dot edges within the inside whip stitch. Initially I pleated the material to strategically hide those odd polka dot seams as much as possible but the pleats didn't look right with the gathered lower tiers so I likewise gathered the top within the waistband. I had to be funny and use a white button closure on the black waistband because I have a massive amount of white buttons thanks to my evil grandmother always cutting them off a discarded shirt. (Her deceptive cookie tin of sewing supplies also contained a pack of dirty playing cards, but that's another story.)
Despite the polka dot patchwork, lengthy hand sewing, cumbersome additions, and cheapness of it all; the idea and execution of this skirt still happened quickly. I like the illusion of pattern, dot, stripe, and floral even if I am not used to this much alternating black and white. There's still just enough black material to show all the cat hair, but all the business makes for a cute, fun, frilly skirt. I'm pleased with the fly by night sewing and outside the box material uses for future scrap busting possibilities.
Join me on Blue Sky or browse more project photos on the Kbatz Krafts Facebook and Instagram. Visit the Kbatz Krafts Archive for more sewing adventures including:
Legacy of Sewing for Search Magazine
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